Lesson 3:
Knowing Your Oils

This lesson is designed to deepen your understanding of how botanical oils interact with the skin — not just what they are, but how they behave.

Each oil carries a unique composition of fatty acids, vitamins, and active compounds that influence how it:

• Absorbs

• Protects

• Repairs

• Balances

As you move through this module, allow yourself to learn both analytically and intuitively.

This is only a small list of oils, be sure to research and further oils you may be interested in.........It's time to think about your skin and what you would like to achieve in it's nourishment.

This is where formulation begins. 

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OIL PROFILES

JOJOBA OIL (Simmondsia chinensis Seed Oil)

Composition & Structure: Jojoba oil is a liquid wax ester, structurally similar to human sebum.

It is composed primarily of long-chain monounsaturated esters.

Skin Interaction: 

• Supports barrier function

• Helps regulate sebum production

• Reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL)

Key Components

• Wax esters

• Vitamin E

• Plant sterols

Functional Benefits

• Non-comedogenic (doesn't clog the pores)

• Suitable for most skin types

• Stabilises formulations

Formulation Insight

• Best used as a balancing oil rather than a deeply reparative lipid.

COCONUT OIL (Cocos nucifera Oil)

Composition

Rich in saturated medium-chain fatty acids, particularly lauric acid.

Skin Interaction

• Forms an occlusive barrier

• Reduces moisture loss

• Provides mild antimicrobial support

• Key Components

• Lauric acid Caprylic acid Vitamin E (trace)

Functional Benefits

• Strong moisture retention

• Protective barrier support

• Lauric Acid does a few key things:

• Antimicrobial → helps fight acne-causing bacteria

• Cleansing → used in soaps and surfactants to lift oil and dirt

• Emollient → can soften and smooth the skin

Considerations

• Can be comedogenic

• Not ideal for acne-prone skin due to this

• Better suited to Cleansers and wash off products

MEADOWFOAM SEED OIL (Limnanthes alba Seed Oil)

Composition

High in long-chain fatty acids, contributing to exceptional oxidative stability.

Skin Interaction

• Locks in hydration

• Softens and smooths skin

• Great for dry, mature, and sensitive skin

• Generally low clogging risk compared to heavier fatty acids

Key Components

Eicosenoic acid Long-chain fatty acids, (often called gadoleic acid)

Functional Benefits

• Highly stable

• Extends shelf life

• Silky skin feel

• luxurious, cushiony skin feel

​Formulation Insight

Best used as a supportive, stabilising oil, when heavier moisturisation is needed eg mature skin types

ABYSSINIAN OIL (Crambe abyssinica Seed Oil)

Composition

Rich in erucic acid (omega-9).

Skin Interaction

• Fast absorbing

• Enhances spreadability

• Leaves a smooth finish

Key Components

Erucic acid Oleic acid

Functional Benefits

• Lightweight

• Improves texture of formulations

Considerations

• Not strongly reparative on its own.

• used in light moisturisation products (young skin)

OLIVE OIL (Olea europaea Fruit Oil)

Composition

• High in oleic acid

• natural antioxidants and squalene.

Skin Interaction

• Deeply emollient

• Softens the skin

• Can increase permeability

Key Components

• Oleic acid

• Squalene

• Polyphenols

• Functional Benefits

• Nourishing for dry skin

• Antioxidant support

Considerations

May disrupt barrier in sensitive or acne-prone skin

HEMP SEED OIL (Cannabis sativa Seed Oil)

Composition

Rich in essential fatty acids with an ideal omega-6 to omega-3 ratio.

Skin Interaction

• Supports barrier repair

• Reduces inflammation

• Balances oil production

Key Components

• Linoleic acid Alpha-linolenic acid

• Gamma-linolenic acid

Functional Benefits

• Ideal for acne and reactive skin

• Lightweight and non-occlusive

Considerations

Oxidises quickly (requires antioxidants)

CASTOR OIL (Ricinus communis Seed Oil)

Composition

• High in ricinoleic acid.

Skin Interaction

• Strong occlusive properties

  • Occlusives work best when layered over hydration (water + humectants like glycerin or sodium PCA)

  • On their own, they can sometimes feel heavy without actually hydrating

• Binds impurities during cleansing

Key Components

• Ricinoleic acid

​Functional Benefits

• Effective in oil cleansing

• Supports healing environments

• Provides a heavy, protective barrier

Considerations

• Very thick and viscous

• Best used in blends AVOCADO OIL (Persea gratissima Oil)

Composition

• Rich in oleic acid and fat-soluble vitamins.

• Skin Interaction

• Penetrates deeply

• Supports barrier repair

Key Components

• Vitamins A, D, E

• Phytosterols

Functional Benefits

• Restorative for dry skin

• Improves elasticity

Considerations

• Heavy for oily skin types

SWEET ALMOND OIL (Prunus amygdalus dulcis Oil)

Composition

• Balanced fatty acid profile.

Skin Interaction

• Softens and smooths

• Supports elasticity

Key Components

• Vitamin E

• Oleic and linoleic acids

Functional Benefits

• Gentle and versatile

• Suitable for most skin types

Considerations

Avoid with nut allergies

ROSEHIP OIL (Rosa canina Seed Oil)

Composition

• Rich in essential fatty acids

• and vitamin A derivatives.

Skin Interaction

• Promotes cell turnover

• Supports collagen production

• Improves skin tone

Key Components

• Linoleic acid

• Alpha-linolenic acid

• Provitamin A

Functional Benefits

• Regenerative

• Brightening

• Considerations

• Can be sensitising

RED RASPBERRY SEED OIL (Rubus idaeus Seed Oil)

Composition

• Rich in essential fatty acids:

  • Linoleic acid (Omega-6) → supports barrier repair, ideal for acne-prone skin

  • Alpha-linolenic acid (Omega-3) → calming, anti-inflammatory

  • Oleic acid (Omega-9) → softening, nourishing

• High levels of tocopherols (Vitamin E)

• Abundant in polyphenols and flavonoids → potent antioxidants

• Contains phytosterols → help strengthen and repair the skin barrier

Skin Interaction

• Antioxidant shield → helps neutralise free radicals from environmental stressors (including UV exposure and pollution)

• Supports barrier function → reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and improves resilience

• Soothing effect → ideal for sensitive, inflamed, or reactive skin

• Absorbs quickly with a dry-touch finish, making it versatile across skin types

Key Components

• Vitamin E (Tocopherols) → protects lipids in the skin from oxidation

• Polyphenols → anti-inflammatory and protective

• Essential fatty acids (Omega 3 & 6) → repair and maintain the lipid barrier

• Phytosterols → reinforce skin structure and calm irritation

Functional Benefits

• Calming & anti-inflammatory → helpful for redness, rosacea-prone or sensitised skin

• Barrier-repairing → supports compromised or dry skin

• Lightweight nourishment → hydrates without clogging pores

• Environmental protection support → pairs beautifully with daily skincare rituals exposed to sun and wind

Considerations

• While it offers supportive protection against oxidative stress from UVA/UVB,
  it is NOT a substitute for a broad-spectrum sunscreen

• Best positioned as a supportive antioxidant oil, not an SPF product

• Typically low comedogenic, but always patch test for very reactive skin

CACAY OIL (Caryodendron orinocense Seed Oil)

Composition

High in natural vitamin A (retinol) and linoleic acid.

Skin Interaction

• Stimulates collagen production

• Improves elasticity

Key Components

• Retinol

• Vitamin E

Functional Benefits

• Anti-aging Skin renewal

Considerations

• Use in low concentrations due to Retinol content increasing UV sensitivity

• Best in night Creams

CARROT SEED OIL (Daucus carota Seed Oil)

Composition

• A concentrated essential oil (not a carrier oil)

• Rich in:

  • Carotenoids → precursors to Vitamin A activity in the skin

  • Sesquiterpenes (especially carotol) → regenerative and protective

• Naturally high in antioxidant compounds that help defend against environmental stress

Skin Interaction

• Supports skin regeneration → encourages renewal and repair of damaged or mature skin

• Enhances skin tone → promotes a more even, luminous complexion

• Revitalising effect → often used for dull, fatigued, or environmentally stressed skin

• Works synergistically with carrier oils rich in fatty acids to strengthen overall skin function

Key Components

• Beta-carotene → antioxidant, supports skin vitality and radiance

• Carotol → signature compound of carrot seed oil, linked to skin regeneration and protection

• Other sesquiterpenes → contribute to calming and restorative effects

Functional Benefits

• Brightening → helps improve the appearance of uneven tone and dullness

• Antioxidant protection → combats free radical damage

• Regenerative support → ideal for mature, sun-exposed, or weathered skin

• Balancing → can help normalise both dry and oily skin types when properly diluted

Formulation Insight (Bunyah Botanicals-style)

• Best used in:

  • Facial oils and serums (especially for mature or sun-exposed skin)

  • Night creams → pairs beautifully with repair-focused actives

  • After-sun blends → alongside calming oils like jojoba or seabuckthorn

• Beautiful pairings:

  • Red Raspberry Seed Oil → antioxidant + barrier synergy

  • Seabuckthorn Extract → carotenoid-rich repair and glow

  • Frankincense → enhances regenerative, age-supporting profiles

Considerations

• Highly concentrated essential oil → always dilute

• Recommended usage: below 1% in facial formulations

• Strong, earthy aroma → use thoughtfully in blends for a balanced scent profile

• Not a sunscreen, but offers supportive antioxidant protection

****KNOWLEDGE CHECK QUIZ**** Grab a pen and note book

1. Which oil mimics the skin’s natural sebum?

A. Coconut

B. Jojoba

C. Olive

D. Castor

2. What is the main function of occlusive oils?

A. Exfoliation

B. Hydration

C. Reduce TEWL (transepidermal water loss)

D. Brightening

3. Best fatty acid profile for acne-prone skin?

A. Oleic

B. Linoleic

C. Saturated

D. None

4. Most stable oil?

A. Hemp

B. Meadowfoam

C. Rosehip

D. Avocado

5. Most comedogenic?

A. Jojoba

B. Hemp

C. Coconut

D. Abyssinian

6. Most regenerative oil?

A. Almond

B. Rosehip

C. Castor

D. Meadowfoam

7. Contains natural retinol?

A. Cacay

B. Jojoba

C. Coconut

D. Meadowfoam

8. Best for inflammation + barrier repair?

A. Olive

B. Hemp

C. Castor

D. Coconut

9. Why is carrot seed oil diluted?

A. Evaporates

B. Highly active

C. No benefit

D. Water-based

10. Why blend castor oil?

A. Too light

B. Evaporates

C. Too thick

D. Ineffective

11. Best lightweight serum oil?

A. Avocado

B. Olive

C. Abyssinian

D. Castor

12. Best for dry, mature skin?

A. Hemp

B. Avocado

C. Jojoba

D. Abyssinian 1

ANSWER KEY

1. B — Jojoba Oil

2. C — Reduce TEWL

3. B — High linoleic acid

4. B — Meadowfoam Seed Oil

5. C — Coconut Oil

6. B — Rosehip Oil

7. A — Cacay Oil

8. B — Hemp Seed Oil

9. B — Highly active and concentrated

10. C — Very thick and viscous

11. C — Abyssinian Oil

12. B — Avocado Oil

13. False — It does not provide adequate sun protection

CLOSING

This knowledge is the foundation of formulation. When you understand how oils behave — not just what they are — you begin to create with intention.

This is where your formulations become intuitive. 🌿

This is where your confidence grows. 🌿

This is where your Bunyah Botanicals Formulation begins.